A look into the Lion's Eye

As an ophthalmologist in Perth, talk of the ‘Lion’s Eye’ usually evokes our research Institute in Nedlands (http://www.lei.org.au/).  But on a recent trip to South Africa, I had a more literal experience of the eponym, through an intimate encounter with real lions, and one man – Kevin Richardson - who lives eye to eye with these cats as a part of their pride.       

I first discovered Kevin on YouTube in 2008 whilst nosing the trail for stories and snippets, and hit on an Associated Press story for the ‘Lion Whisperer’ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kjWBgA81LM&feature=related), an ‘animal behaviourist’ and conservationist on the outskirts of Johannesburg.  A mouse-click later I sat stunned as I watched a man walk un-armed into a group of enormous adult male lions, shoo one of them out of the way, and give another one a great big bear hug, before settling down in their manes for an afternoon kip.  Transfixed, I followed the trail to Kevin’s doorstep for a fortnight at the ‘Kingdom of the White Lion’ (http://www.lionwhisperer.co.za/), with three other volunteers in the African springtime. 

Early on the first morning, we were greeted by six curious and very vocal adolescent lions.  Even through fences, I was struck by their force, a hot blast of penetrating gazes and calls to meet (or was it to eat?) us, with constant head-rubs and licks of affection for each other. And then the unforgettable moment:  Kevin slipped into their enclosure.  Immediately they were on him, in tawny waves that buffeted and wrestled and knocked him over.  Their power had us quivering.  They wanted him down on four legs, none of this bipedal bullshit!  As they settled in the grass and began to relax, Kevin spoke with us and answered questions, whilst exchanging chin-scratches and the occasional playful slap with a cat.  He emerged scuffed and smiling, his shirt torn and a crimson streak on his back:  ‘just another morning with the boys.’

Bit by bit, we got to know Kevin’s Kingdom, a 500 hectare plot of natural terrain centred around a valley, bisected by Crocodile River (where Kevin occasionally dips with Meg, a favourite lioness) and framed by mountains to the East and West.  The Kingdom is home to 39 lions, two black leopards (my pick for ‘Sexiest Cats’!), Jade the jaguar and four clans of spotted and brown hyenas.  Outside the enclosures giraffes, wildebeest, inyala and kudu roam free, as well as more elusive jackals and caracals.  We got to feed all the animals, clean their enclosures, play with lion cubs and elephants at the nearby Lion Park and Elephant Sanctuary, and watch Kevin and Rodney work with two magnificent male lions on a commercial television shoot.  With time, we began to understand Kevin’s principles of trust and respect for animals, rather than the use of fear and ‘the stick’.  The fortnight continued to unfold, surreal and surprising. 

As the sun would set, we’d gather around a log fire at our beloved ‘Shadynook’ homestead, to gush and compare snaps.  Across the river, the lions would begin their evening symphony of roar-song, as if carrying us to bed in a protective shroud.  Wishful thinking perhaps, sharply grounded each morning by a fresh pile of hyena shit to clean, a new horse leg to skin and dice, or Rodney’s earthy sense of humour.     

Back in Perth at the Lion’s Eye Institute, we study toxoplasmosis and posterior uveitis.  But when I dream, I see those majestic cats again, that green quartz valley, and one man’s unique, eye-to-eye relationship with the fiercest predators in Africa.